Difference between revisions of "Bauanleitung/en"

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# Jumper auf Ramps Board aufstecken (jeweils 3, zwischen den Pinheadern für die Schrittmotortreiber)
# Put in the jumpers on the Ramps board (3 jumper between all pinheaders for the stepper driver)
# Drucker auf den Rücken legen
# Lay down the printer on its back.
# Arduino unterhalb der Boden Platte mit zwei 25 mm und einer 12 mm Schraube fest schrauben. M3 Kunststoffmuttern als Abstands halter verwenden. Mit Nylon Mutter Arduino an der 12 mm Schraube befestigen.
# Attach the Arduino under the bottom case plate with two 25 mm screws and one 12 mm screw.
# Ramps Shield vorsichtig auf den Arduino aufstecken.
# Carefully push the ramps board onto the Arduino.
# Mit zwei Kunststoffmuttern das Ramps Board befestigen.
# use two plastic nuts to hold it in place.
# Schrittmotor Treiber auf das Ramps Board stecken. (Ausrichtung beachten! Siehe Grafik)
# Push in all stepper drivers onto the ramps board. (take care for the correct orientation, see figure).
# Drucker auf die Seite legen.
# Lax printer on the side
# Netzteil anbringen. Von oben mit zwei 12 mm Schrauben befestigen.
# Screw in the power supply. User two 12 mm screws from the top.
# Von hinten mit drei 8 mm Inch Schrauben festschrauben.
# At the back use three 8 mm inch screws.
# Typenschild unten rechts aufkleben.
# Stick down the type label.

Revision as of 10:28, 27 April 2017

Other languages:
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3Dator oblique view

What you will need

You don't own a 3Dator kit?Get one here.

For the full assembly you will need about 10 to 20 hours

The following tools are required or very useful:

  1. Screw driver
  2. Allen key M2,5 M2 and M3
  3. Cable stripper
  4. Hammer
  5. Small caliper
  6. Soldering iron
  7. Cutter
  8. Screwdriver
  9. Side cutter
  10. tape measure
  11. Scissors
  12. 5 mm and 8 mm metal drills

At first check if you got all parts that you'll need to build the printer.

A list of all components can be found here: BOM. If you are confused with a name of a part you can always look up how it looks like.


You'll need:
1x case_left
1x case_right
1x case_floor
1x case_back
1x case_display
2x case_display_tilter
2x z_nut_holder
2x z_motor_support
1x z_motor_mount
4x test_edge
8x spacer_5mm
38x M3 square nuts
42x 12 mm rounded head screw with hexagon socket
4x 8 mm rounded head screw with hexagon socket

For preparation you should pull down the protective foil from all the plexiglass parts. Make sure to strip down the foil on both sides.

Now make sure to remove all the remains from the laser process. Sometimes pieces are still stuck in the screw holes. Just push them out with a screw driver.

To get a feeling for the pexiglass there are four test edges. Screw them together with squrere nuts and M3 screws until the plexiglass breaks.


It is very important to build the kit in the right order

For the case use the 12 mm screws. For reaching some tricky spots use a screw driver and a magnet to get the square nut to the right spot.

We'll begin with the mount of the z axis stepper.

  1. screw z_motor_mount together with z_motor_support.
  2. now screw together case_floor and case_left.
  3. then connect the z axis motor mount with case_floor.
  4. also add case_back and case right.

Assemble the LCD display mount

  1. first screw together the lcd display with the plexiglass spacers and 20mm screws.
  2. then connect the display unit with both case_display_tiler.
  3. push a plexiglass piece that is leftover into the knob and push it onto the lcd.
  4. screw in the finished display unit into the case.

Don't install the front and top case panels yet.

Now screw the nut of the z axis spindle onto the both z_nut_holder.

  1. use 2 12 mm screw from both sides. (fig. 7)

Z axis stepper assmebly

  1. move the stepper motor through the opening in z_motor_mount.
  2. if necessary open the 4 screws to the z_motor_support a bit
  3. screw the motor onto z_motor_mount with 4 8 mm M3 nuts.
  4. add the z spindle nut. The shaft of the nut should point down.

LED stripes

1x case_front
1x LED stripes
1x idler_left
1x idler_right
1x Hall Endstop
1 x 12 mm rounded head screw
1 x 8 mm rounded head screw
10 x M3 square nuts

At first the LED stripes are mounted. Those are sticked onto the back of the front panel. Check for the correct direction and position of the stripes. Digial LED stripes do have a direction, one end is the input (DI) and the other one is the output (DO). Just take notice of the tiny arrows. Double check that all three LED stripes are mounted in the right direction. The signals input should look like pictured on the right side. The three pieces should have 2x 21 LEDs and 1x 12 LEDs long.

Analog LED stripes should be mounted that no cables need to cross on the corners.

Prepare idlers

  1. there are 5 grooves for nuts in the idlers (for better compatibility the groove for the nut that the front panel fixes is double). Add nuts in the 4 grooves that are needed. Make sure they reach far enough into the groove. Double check with a screw.
  2. Check if one of the 8 mm steel rods fits through the hole in the idler. If not use a 8 mm drill to make it fit.
  3. screw one of the hall endstops to the left (front view) idler with a 8 mm screw. The pins of the Endstops need to be straighten before that.

Stick down the LED stripes

  1. position the idler on the front panel for better orientation
  2. stick down all three stripes. Orient yourself on the figure on the right.
  3. the outer stripes should be sticked down in the middle.

Soldering of the LED stripes

  1. first solder some tin-solder onto the contacts of the stripes to make soldering much easier
  2. cut off the LED cable at the marked length. Keep in mind that the length should match the distance between the stripes through the idlers. The other part of the cable with the connector on one end will be used to connect the stripes to the extension board.
  3. start soldering the cables to the stripes, use black for GND, red for 5V and blue or green for DI.
  4. guide the cable through the idler
  5. now screw in the idler to keep it in place
  6. then trim the cables to the perfect length
  7. to remove the isolation from the cables it can be easier to remove the idler again

To finish up solder the 15 cm long cable piece with the 3 pin connector on the input of the LED stripe.



you'll need:
1 x printhead
1 x endstop_holder
1 x cooling_tube
1 x hotend_clamp
1 x sensor_clamp
1 x sensor_spacer
1 x Merlin Hotend
4 x LM8UU Linear bearings
1 x Hall Endstop
1 x inductive sensor
9 x M3 squere nuts
4 x 25 mm rounded head screw
4 x 20 mm rounded head screw
2 x 8 mm rounded head screw
1 x 6 mm rounded head screw


The printhead says 3Dator on the front. On both sides Hotends can be mounted. With different Fantubes the following hotends are compatible: Merlin, Dyze, E3D v6, E3D vulcano.


The default configuration for the 3Dator is the Merlin hotend. Those hotends will need a few changes before it can be used in the 3Dator. The Hotend consists of the following components:

  1. aluminum nut
  2. peek rod
  3. messing liner
  4. 0.2, 0.3, 0.5 mm airbrush nozzle
  5. aluminum heat block
  6. EPCOS B57560G104F NTC Thermistor
  7. 12 V 30 W heater catridge
  8. 12 V fan
  9. allen key

This step is already done if you bought our kit The aluminium nut needs to be drilled up to a 4 mm hole. Then you can cut a M5 thread. Also make sure the Thermistor can't fall out of the alu block. Either glue it in or drill a extra hole and secure it with a tiny screw.

  1. First put together the alu block and the messing part. Secure both with a M3 setscrew (1).
  2. then screw on the peek rod onto the messing thread (2).
  3. make sure everything looks like in picture 3.
  4. add the heating cartridge and secure it with an M3 setscrew.
  5. Don't screw in the airbrush nozzle yet because it is very fragile. Use the 0,5 mm nozzle first because it is the most easiest.

Printhead assembly

Printhead without cooling tube and Hall endstop
  1. insert the square nuts into the slightly sloped slots.
  2. screw in 25 from the top into the square nuts.
  3. insert 4x LM8UU into the printhead. Secure them with zip ties.
  4. Push the heater cartridge and the thermistor cables through the hotend_clamp. (Maybe you need to disassemble the thermsitors connector to get it through the hole.)
  5. Push the heater cartridge into the right side of the hotend and secure it with a set screw.
  6. Push the hotend into the left side of the printhead, check that it is oriented properly.
  7. Use 2x 20 mm screws to secure the hotend with the hotend_clamp on the printhead. (add 4x square nuts in the provided slots in the printhead to screw into)
  8. Add the inductive sensor on the right side with sensor_clamp, sensor_space and also 20 mm screws. The inductive sensor should end about 1 mm behind the hotend nozzle tip.
Hall endstop x
  1. put the endstop_holder together with the hall endstop with one 6 mm screw and a square nut.
  2. add the endstop_holder to the printhead assembly with 2x 8 mm screws.

You'll need:
1 x cooling_tube
2 x 16 mm rounded head screw
4 x 8 mm rounded head screw

The Fan provides an airflow from behind the printhead onto the cooling rips of the hotend.

  1. Screw the Fan on with two 16mm screws in such a way, that the wire is up. (don't overthighten them).
  2. now you can screw cooling_tube under the printhead with 4 8mm screws.



you'll need:
1 x z_sled_main
2 x z_sled_support
1 x z_sled_back
4 x Magnet coupling (female)
6 x zip ties
4 x SC10UU linear bearings
1 m thick 2 pole wire
70 cm thin 2 pole wire with connector
40 cm spiral tube
16 x M5 12 mm screws
18 x M3 square nuts
18 x M3 12 mm screws

  1. screw the SC10UU bearings in the Z backplate with the M5 screws (Attantion: The hole for the wires should be on the right side. Have a look on the picture on the right for reference. ).Push the 10mm Rod through the bearings, so that they are aligned. Try turning the bearings around. They should run nice and smooth, after all screws are tightened.
  2. connect the z_sled_support pieces with the z_sled_back with 12mm screws.
  3. now assemble the z_sled_main to it.
  4. push the female magnet connectors in the slotted holes. bend the pins together on the other side.
  5. install the wires to measure the needed length.
  6. The wires are connected diagonally. This is to give the bed reverse polarity protection. The Heatbed is connected to the front left and back right connector. the thin thermistor wires are connected front right and back left.
  7. zip tie everything in place.
  8. wrap the wires in spiral tube and lock them in place with another ziptie.

Heated plate

you'll need:
1 x bed_carrier
4 x Magnet coupling (male)
1 x MK3 Aluminium Heatbed
3 x M3 self locking nuts
3 x M3 16 mm screws
20 cm thick pole wire
20 cm thermistor with wire
20 cm Kapton tape

We deliver the Heatbed already assembled in our Kit

The heated bed should be positioned with the single middle hole beeing in the back of the printer. Additionally the heated bed works even if rotated 180°.

  1. if not already done, solder big cables to the heated beds terminals like describt on the heatbed itself. (optional: add a LED and resistor)
  2. add the thermistor and stick it down with capton tape on the black side of the bed
  3. put in the male purse magnets in bed_carrier and fold the ends of them.
  4. solder together the magnets with the cables.
  5. optional you can add an isolating layer like cardboard or cork between plexiglass and heated bed.
  6. on one side you'll find 3 holes. Push a 16mm screw through the middle hole and through both, left and right holes on the other side and secure them with a self locking nut. Tighten them, until they have a tight fit, while still be able to get turned.
  7. Now screw the Heatbed on Bed_carrier.

Linear guides

Pulleys and Steppers

The String is threated through the pulley.
You'll need:
300 cm String
2 x Pulley
6 x M3 self locking nuts
8 x 8 mm rounded head screw
6 x 10 mm rounded head screw
2 x squere nuts
2 x Nema 17 stepper motor
  1. if necessary use a 5 mm drill to drill the perfect diameter. take care drill straight down
  2. Cut the string in half to get two 1,5 m pieces. (when needed meld the ends)
  3. Threar the string through one pulley each.
  4. The easiest way is to start at the thick side of the pulley. Pull out the end of the string out of the squere nut slot. Then push the string down into the hole in the bottom of the squere nut slot. If there are tiny strings in the hole get rid of them using a pin. On the other side thread the string through the last hole back onto the spool.
  5. Insert self locking nuts into the pulley
  6. Push the pulleys onto the stepper motors axle and tighten it up with 10 mm screws. Make sure one of the screws sits on the flange.
  7. The pulley should have about 1-3 mm space between itself and the motor.
  8. Screw in the motors with the cable plug pointing downwards with four 8 mm screws onto xy_motor_carrier_right or xy_motor_carrier_left.


You'll need:
2 x x- Achse, 280 x 8 mm
1 x printhead
4 x squre nuts
4 x 12 mm rounded head screw
4 x LM8UU
4 x zip ties

  1. hammer both 280 mm rods in one of the y_carrier. You should bore the holes out to 8mm with a drill.

ATTENTION: The drill can crack the printparts! Drill very carefully and slowly. When drilling to fast, die printparts may melt.

  1. Install the printhead on the 8mm rods.
  2. now press the rods in the other y_carrier.
  3. Lock 2 LM8UUs each in place with an zip tie.
  4. press nuts in the slots
  5. screw 2 flanged bearings (f693zz) in y_carrier with 12 mm screws.


you'll need:
2 x y- Axis, 280 x 8 mm
1 x xy_motor_carrier_left
1 x xy_motor_carrier_right
4 x 12 mm screw
8 x 10 mm screw
4 x F693zz bearing
4 x zip tie
  1. push the 280 mm rods in xy_motor_carrier_left / right. It may be easier to insert them useing a electric drill. Attention: Push them in as straight as possible!
  2. install the Motor carriers with the rods in the case. Often the nuts will stay in their slots, if you push them in. Otherwise you can hold them in place with one of the magnets.
  3. now the X-axis can be slid on the rods. The 3Dator Logo should be facing towards the front.

screw the flanged bearings in the idlers with 10mm screws.

Now you can assemble the front panel to the case.

  1. first control, if the wires are still positioned correctly.
  2. then slide the Y rods in the idlers.


you'll need:
2 x Z- axis, 400 x 10 mm
1 x z_rod_holder_left
1 x z_rod_holder_right
1 x Mechanical Endstop
6 x M3 square nuts
6 x M3 12 mm screws
  1. turn your 3dator on its back.
  2. push the Z rods in Z_rod_holder_left bzw. z_rod_holder_right.
  3. lay the Printbed on the back panel. Slide the Z rods through the SC10UU Bearings behind the Printbed and in the Motor carriers.
  4. screw Z_rod_holder_left bzw. z_rod_holder_right with 3 12mm screws in place each.
  5. attach the Z axis to the nut, already slid on the Z Motor thread, with 12mm M3 Screws.

Core xy line guidance

you'll need:
4x M2 nuts
1x 300 cm fishing line

This is how it should look like when you finish this step:

It's best to begin with the right Pulley:

  1. The inwards facing line ending now should hang out the pulley about 30-40cm. Now you should have a long and a short side.
  2. Now knot a M2 nut to the inner side (showing to the Motor).
  3. push the printhead in the middle of your machine
  4. thread the line with the nut below the y_carriage to the front idler. Thread it behind the bearing to the upper left bearing. Then thread it to the y_carriage and into the front left hole of the Printhead.
  5. Secure it with a screw. Don't screw it in to deep, the screw should just prevent the nut from falling out again.

Now push back the printhead to the far right back corner. The string should be on the left side of the pulley with 1 or 2 first coils. This is important to insure there is enough string in every corner later on.

  1. For this purpose rotate the pulley down while keeping the outer string from pulley looping onto the pulley. It should slip along your thumb, so it won't coild up on the pulley. After 2-3 turns there will be a bit extra string on the pulley. The string will be self fixed to the pulley at this state, to pull the printhead to the far front left.
  2. Continue turning the pulley until the printhead arrives at the front left corner. In this process always take care that the outer side of the string does not coil up onto the pulley.

Now half of the work is done.

  1. We will need a bit of backup string on the pulley. Therefor we add at least one loop (better 2 or 3) of string over the pulley.

Have in mind that the string now needs to be coiled in the other direction. The end of the string need to be decoiled from the upper side of the pulley. Also make sure that the string runs arround the pulley between the both holes for the string.

  1. the outer end of the string gets threaded through y_carrier to the printhead. The second M2 nut is now added to the end of the string. It should be knoted in a fixed postition 1 cm before the printhead. This way the string gets its first tension.
  2. Insert the nut into the printhead and prevent it falling out by screwing in the tightening screw. For this use pliers. You can tighten the string very hard, thats totally fine. The tension will loosen when it can spread through the entire string.
  1. At the end cut of the excess string.

Now the string that runs on the pulley needs a bit of a tidy up.

  1. Therefore guide the string while coiling up (by moving the printhead) that it coiles clean and in parallel to the printer case.

Repeat these steps mirrored. After that you can tension the lines. Move the Printhead around to spread the tension, tension again and check if the Axis are still rectangular. After you finished the first print you should retension the lines.

install top case Plate

the mechanical part is finished. Proceed to install case_top on your printer.


you'll need:
1 x Nema 17 Motor, 1.7 A (+70 cm wire)
1 x MR105ZZ bearing
1 x 608ZZ bearing
1 x extruder_base
1 x hook
1 x tightener
1 x lever
1 x axle
1 x Mk7 Gear
1 x PTFE Fitting 4 x M5
2 x M3 40 mm screw
3 x M3 25 mm screw
2 x M3 self locking nuts

Assembly sequence: Preparative the 3D printed parts should be cleaned from filament remains.

  1. Put the axle through the 608ZZ and push both in the tightener.
  2. Screw in the PTFE Fitting into the extruder base (be careful not too tight)
  3. check the position of the extruder base and stepper motor to find out there the Mk7 gears needs to go. To get the right distance use one of the test edges. Take care that the set screw will sit on the steppers flangue.
  4. Screw in the set screw as tight as you can otherwise it can loosen itself over the time.
  5. Insert M3 25 mm screws through the 3 holes in extruder base.
  6. Push the lever, tightener and hook onto the screws.
  7. Insert the two M3 40 mm screws and also add the two M3 nuts. Don't tighten those screws, this will adjust the tension on the filament onto the Mk7 gear later on.
  8. Hold on the stepper motor and the assembled extruder on the printers case and screw in the 3 screws. Tighten the screws only a bit. The lever in the extruder should be able to move. It is alright if the complete assembly seems a bit wobbly.
  9. Push in the MR105ZZ into the stepper motor axis.


Z-max Endstop

  1. screw the mechanical endstop in the right Z_rod_holder with 2 12mm screws.
  2. connect it with the Ramps Board.


you'll need:
6 x M3 Nylon nut
3 x 12 mm screw
2 x 25 mm screw
3 x Inch screw
15 x Jumper
1 x Arduino Mega
1 x Ramps Board
4 x DRV8825 motor driver
1 x DC Power supply (FSP220-60LE 250W ATX Netzteil)
  1. Put in the jumpers on the Ramps board (3 jumper between all pinheaders for the stepper driver)
  2. Lay down the printer on its back.
  3. Attach the Arduino under the bottom case plate with two 25 mm screws and one 12 mm screw.
  4. Carefully push the ramps board onto the Arduino.
  5. use two plastic nuts to hold it in place.
  6. Push in all stepper drivers onto the ramps board. (take care for the correct orientation, see figure).
  7. Lax printer on the side
  8. Screw in the power supply. User two 12 mm screws from the top.
  9. At the back use three 8 mm inch screws.
  10. Stick down the type label.

wire connection

you'll need:
1 m spiral tube
1 x Radial fan (BD125015MB)
3 x 12 mm screws
10 x zip ties
  1. elongate both Fan wires by about 1m. You have to elongate 2 Wires each, the red (+12V) and the black (GND) one. Some fans have an additional yellow wire, wich by now isn't used. Therefore you don't have to elongate it. ATTENTION: be careful, to not touch the Line with your Solder Iron, or they will melt.
  2. attach the fan to the printhead with 3x 12mm screws.
  3. connect the heater and thermistor wires
  4. Now you have to change the pin order for the endstop. (we have already done this for you in the kit)
  5. attach the Endstop wires to + - and DO.
  6. mark every Molex wire at the plug(for example R for right motor, E for extruder usw..).
  7. attach one long twisted motor wire to each motor
  8. twist the spiral tube around all the wires from the printhead up. It can be easier if you hold the wire ending together with zipties.
  9. add the motorwires to the bundle and keep twisting the spiral tube around all the wires.
  10. push the wire harness through the hole in the bottom_plate
  11. solder the ON/OFF switch to one black ground wire and the green wire of the Mainboard Connector. Use shrink tube for isolation.
  12. screw the USB connector in place and connect it with the Arduino Mega.
  13. attach the Ramps board to the power supply by cutting the plug with the two yellow and two black wires off and screwing the wires in the power connector.
  14. connect all the wires like seen on the wiring sheet.
  15. use zipties to lock everything in place.

Extension Board

The Extension Board is a small PCB designed to drive the LEDs, the 2 fans and the Bed sensor. We prepared 3 versions, one of which is designed to be professionally manufactured and uses SMD components. The two other versions can be soldered by hand on a perfboard and drive either digital 5V or analog 12V RGB Led Stripes. More Info here. The Extension Board is screwed in case_bottom from below with 3 16 mm scews, 3 distance rings und 3 Nylon nuts.

3Dator without Extension Board

To prevent lead fracture, it is advisable to strip the outer isolation of the Z Probe wire to make it more flexible. Strip it between from ca 3cm to 35cm above the Sensor. Be careful to don't hurt the inner wire isolations.

Without the extensionboard the Ramps is short of pins needed for dual extrusion setups. But you can use your printer without. Connect the backwards facing fan to 5V and the radial fan to D09 on the Rampsboard.

To use the proximity sensor without the extensionboard you have to manually solder in a voltage divider from 12V to 5V. R1 is 10kOhm and R2 15k Ohm.

Hall Endstop y-Axis

Hall Endstops are used on the X and the Y axis. Connect them with 4pin plugs.

ATTENTION! For the printer the digital out pin D0 is used. The pin assignment on the endstop side is different. Thats why you have to change the wires manually.

Motor driver

Attantion! Be careful to not short any components or pins while tuning your stepper driver.

The stepper drivers drive the motors and provide them with the right amount of electricity. You can set the motor current with the small potentiometer for each Driver.

Measure the voltage between the potentiometer and ground. You can measure the voltage from the scewdriver, which is used to turn the potentiometer. The motor current is set by multiplying the measured voltage with 2. The more current the motors are driven with, the more torque they develop, but the hotter they get.
Max Current = VRef * 2

axis Vref Max Ampere
X&Y Axis 0,7 V 1,4 A
Extruder 0,8 V 1,6 A
Z Axis 0,6 V 1,2 A

Die Motoren der X- & Y-Achse sowie des Extruders sind für 1,7 A Motorstrom ausgelegt. Damit sie nicht so heiß werden, sollten sie etwas darunter betrieben werden. Dazu wird eine Spannung von 0,7 V eingestellt. Schafft es der Extruder nicht, das Filament zu fördern und verliert Schritte, kann man ihn mit mehr Strom betreiben. Es sollte allerdings nicht dauerhaft mit mehr als 0,9 V betrieben werden. Andere Möglichkeiten befinden sich in der Fehlerbehebung.

Zuletzt außerdem noch die Kühlkörper auf die Treiberchips kleben.

Magnete für Hall Endstops

Es ist soweit, du kannst deinen 3Dator zum ersten Mal einstecken und anschalten.

  1. zuerst solltest du die 6 mm Senkkopfschrauben in das passenste Loch im y carrier schrauben.
  2. Überprüfe welche Ausrichtung/Polung der Magnet haben muss, damit der Endstop auslöst (Möglicherweise musst du am Potentimeter des Endstop noch etwas justieren).
  3. Setze den Magneten in der richtigen Ausrichtung auf die Schraube.
  4. Wiederhole den Vorgang für den zweiten Endstop.
  5. Um zu testen, schiebe den Druckkopf im eingeschalteten Zustand in die vordere linke Ecke. Bei beiden Endstops sollten jetzt beide LEDs leuchten.

Erster Start

Wenn du deinen 3Dator einschaltest, wird Haupt Bildschirm angezeigt werden. Über den Knopf kann nun durch das Menü navigiert werden. Um das Menü aufzurufen, muss der Knopf lediglich kurz gedrückt werden. Durch Drehen kann man zu den Untermenüs navigieren.

Motor Test

Zuerst sollte getestet werden, ob die Motoren x/y in die richtige Richtung fahren.

  1. Druckkopf in die Mitte schieben.
  2. Prepare Menü aufrufen.
  3. Ganz nach unten scrollen und Move Axis auswählen.
  4. 1 mm auswählen.
  5. X Achse auswählen.
  6. Vorsichtig den Knopf drehen. Der Druckkopf sollte etwas nach rechts fahren.
  7. Dreht man wieder auf null sollte der Druckkopf wieder nach links auf die alte Position fahren.

Fährt der Druckkopf in die falsche Richtung, kontrolliere, ob die Kabel der Motoren richtig angeschlossen sind.

Durch erneutes Drücken des Knopfes kommt man zurück in das Achs Auswahl Menü Den gleichen Test sollte man nun mit der Y Achse wiederholen, wobei der Druckkopf nun vorne seine 0 Position haben sollte und sich durch Drehen des Knopfes nach hinten fahren lassen sollte.

Endstop Test

Jetzt, da wir wissen, dass die Motoren funktionieren, werden die Endstops getestet. Gehe dazu auf das Prepare Menü und klicke auf Auto Home. Der Druckkopf sollte nun nach vorne links fahren und das Bett nach unten. Ist das Homeing abgeschlossen, kann es sein, dass der Drucker leise quietschende Geräusche macht.

Z - Achse testen

  1. Auto Home aufrufen, dabei sollte die Platte nach unten fahren (zu Z-max).
  2. Einen Metallgegenstand bereit halten, "Set Z Offset" aus dem Settings Menü auswählen, Z - Achse sollte nach oben fahren (zu Z-min). Sicherheitshalber mit dem Metallgegenstand den Sensor zwei-mal auslösen (sichtbar an roter LED am induktiven Sensor) bevor die Achse ganz oben ist.
  3. Mit einem Klick lässt sich das Menü wieder verlassen

Bed Leveling

Nun ist es Zeit, das Bed Leveling einzurichten.

  1. Falls die Airbrush Düse noch nicht eingebaut ist, sollte das nun gemacht werden. Die Airbrush Düse wird mit einer kleinen Gummi Dichtung geliefert, diese muss vor dem Einbau entfernt werden. Für die ersten Druckversuche solltest du mit der 0,5 mm Düse anfangen.
  2. Öffne dazu das Settings Menü.
  3. Führe Set Z Offset aus.
  4. Der Drucker führt das Homeing aus und fährt anschließend bis hoch an den Druckkopf.
  5. Nachdem auf dem Bildschirm "Z Offset:" angezeigt wird, lässt sich der Abstand zur Druckdüse durch Drehen des Knopfes einstellen.
  6. Drehe den Knopf solange, bis die Spitze des Hotends das Druckbett gerade so berührt. Um zu prüfen, ob die Spitze auf dem Heizbett sitzt kannst du die Z-Achse etwas nach oben drücken, wenn sie nicht mehr nachgeben kann ist der Abstand genau null und damit perfekt.
  7. Ein Klick auf den Knopf schließt die Prozedur ab, dein Drucker ist nun bereit für den ersten Druckversuch.

Den Z Offset solltest du nach jedem Nozzle-Tausch neu einstellen, da die Düsen nicht immer gleich lang sind.

Probleme? Klappt das Einstellen des Z Offsets nicht, kann das mehrere Gründe haben.

Problem Lösung
Druckplatte fährt gegen die Druckdüse Abstandssensor weiter unten befestigen
Abstandssensor auf Funktion überprüfen
Abstandssensor LED leuchtet permanent Polung an der Erweiterungsplatine / an dem Spannungsteiler überprüfen
Druckplatte bewegt sich nicht nach oben Motor falsch angeschlossen
Kabelverbindung zwischen Erweiterungsplatine und Ramps hat sich gelöst

Hotend und Heizbett

Main display legend.png

Im nächsten Schritt werden Hotend und Heizbett getestet.

  1. Als erstes sollte die Reaktion der Thermistoren getestet werden.
  2. Das Start-Menü zeigt oben links die Temperatur des Hotends und rechts die des Druckbettes. Beide sollten die Zimmertemperatur anzeigen.
  3. Berühre vorsichtig das Hotend/ die Heizplatte und überprüfe, ob die Temperaturmessung reagiert.
  4. Öffne nun das Settings-> Temperature Menü und stelle für das Hotend unter Nozzle 100 °C ein.
  5. Gehe zurück in das Hauptmenü und überprüfe, ob die Temperatur ansteigt. Die Druckdüse nicht mehr anfassen! Verbrennungsgefahr!
  6. Ab 60 °C sollte der hintere Lüfter anspringen. Tut er dies nicht, muss das Hotend wieder abgeschaltet werden, da durch die ausbleibende Kühlung der Druckkopf beschädigt werden kann!
  7. Nachdem die Funktion des Hotends getestet ist, sollte der Vorgang mit 50°C am Heizbett wiederholt werden.

Erster 3D Druck

To get your first print startet, you should take a look at thispage. Here you will find all necessary steps. Your first printed objekt should be something easy. consider this part for example: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2192066

Firmware update

Every now and then we publish new Firmware updates, which will bring new features and bug fixes. To update your Printers firmware we recommend to use Arduino IDE.

You'll find the latest firmware at our Github page.

A very detailed instruction on how to upgrade your printers firmware can be found here


steps calibration

to recalibrate your printer, it's best to send it move commands and measure the traveled distance. If the measured distance is differs the expected, you can tune the steps/mm. You can tune them with the display or by editing and flashing the Firmware.

Über das Control Menü lassen sich die Steps/mm sowohl für die X, Y und Z Achsen als auch für den Extruder einstellen.

  • Im ersten Schritt sollten die alten Werte der Steps für X und Y aufgeschrieben werden.
  • Nun lässt man die Achsen z. B. über das Prepare Menü manuell 10 cm hin und her fahren und kontrolliert z. B. mit einem Lineal, ob die gemessene Strecke auch 10 cm betragen.
  • Jetzt kann man mit folgender Formel die neuen Steps errechnen.

new steps/mm = (expected length/ measured length)*old steps /mm

  • repeat these steps, until the expected movement equals the measured movement. You will get most accurate calibration, by measuring the longest distance possible.


Something seems not doing like it should?

Here you can find our Troubleshooting guide.


In order to prevent wearing out your bearings you should always keep all rods and bearings a bit oily. The Z axis is most vulnerable to wear and should be kept well lubricated. Best choice is machine-oil. We use sewing machine oil. Don't ever use WD40!

After transportation you should check, if the fishing line is still correctly running on its bearings. Sometimes they get pushed of and rub against the screws.

last steps

Yay! You did it! You now got yourself an 3Dator. Still have questions? Contact us per Mail at info@3dator.com.

Or join our Community group on (currently only German but feel free to join anyway) Telegram.