Troubleshooting

Aus 3Dator Wiki
Wechseln zu: Navigation, Suche
Diese Seite ist eine übersetzte Version der Seite Fehlerbehebung und die Übersetzung ist zu 100 % abgeschlossen sowie aktuell.

Sprachen:
Deutsch • ‎English

The most common problem is a inconsistens flow of material. To understand the problem the origin should be found. First remove the PTFE tube from the hotend.

Now try to push filament into the heated hotend by hand. You will take notice if the hotend is clogged. In many cases the inconsistent print quality is caused by a temperature to low for the filament. Try higher temperatures. Everything below boiling is fine.

You can check the extruder by feeding it material manually with a move command from the control panel (hotends needs to be hot nevertheless). Then you can check with your hand how good the extruder can push the filament. You should not be able to pull out the filament out by hand. Otherwise you need to adjust the screws on the extruder.

Issue Possible causes Fixes

3D print

print doesn't stick Headbed is turned off for a good adhesion the heated bed should be 90 °C for ABS and 50 °C for PLA
Z Offset calibrated wrong The distance between hotend and heated bed needs to be perfect for good print results. See Starting up
Too much cooling Particulary when printing ABS too much cooling causes tension in the printed object. Turn down cooling power and print slower.
Filament tangels up Filament too loose Try to tighten the filament as good as possible on the spool. After switching filaments thread the filament through the fixing holes in the spool.
Layers won't stick Too much cooling Reduce cooling. Especially with ABS too much cooling causes tension in the object.
Inconsistens material flow not enough filament flow
  • Low temperature at the hotend (try increasing the temperature just before the plastic start to boil)
  • Extruder tension screws are too loose or too tight.
  • Wrong nozzle size was set in the slicer.
  • Filament diameter was set wrong in the slicer.
  • Filament tangels up on the filament spool.
  • Mk7 gear slips through (tighten set screw).
  • Steps/mm for extruder is set wrong in the firmware.
  • Stepper driver current is set wrong. (too low: Motor doesn't get enough power and looses steps, too high: Driver overheats and shuts down)
  • Nozzle clogged (more likely to happen on smaller diameters (0,2;0,3))

Mechanics

fishing-line guide loose Screws for tightening are on the limit
  1. Unscrew the tightening screws until you can pull out the line with the M2 nut
  2. Loosen the knot on the M2 nut and push the nut and the know away from the end of the line
  3. Tie the knot
  4. Put back the M2 nut and tighten the fishing line with the screw
Prints suddenly have wrong dimensions Fishing line sliped off the bearings Check the fishing line guide and move the line back into the right position
Prints have wrong dimensions wrong calibration Calculate new steps/mm and update the firmware
Prints are crooked Fishing line tension too diverse Check the line tension. Pull the x axis straight again by tensioning the correct line
Fishing line ripped Fishing line slipped off a bearing Check the line more often. Sometimes it can slip off a bearing by hand.

Electonics

Steppers loosing steps (loud tock tock sounds) not enough current Adjust pontensiometer of the stepper driver: Building instuctions last steps
Stepper drivers are getting to hot Current is set too high, see: Building instuctions last steps
Stepper motors are loud Current is set wrong see Building instuctions last steps
Connecting to printer isn't possible Some programm blocks the access Close those programs that could also use that connection
Python/Pronterface baudrate 250000 won't work Python driver needs to be patched -> Google

Hotend

Hotend won't reach target temperature Too much cooling
  • Check the cooling speed and adjust down
  • isolate your heat block of the hotend
Cable break Measure resistance on the cable. Move the cable, fix the cable on the suspected spot.
Hotend clogged Filament is polluted with particles Unscrew the airbrush nozzle in heated state, push new Filament through to get rid of the partickles. Screw in a new airbrush nozzle.
Hotend is worn down Hotend worn down with ruff materials. When retracting a thick filament ball forms. Hotends needs to be replaced or fixed with a PTFE liner.

Extruder

Pulling out filament is difficult Tube for filament is to thin Carefully drill the tube to 2 mm with a metal drill.
Filament forms a thick ball at the end Before pulling the filament our press it into the hot hotend. Then pull it out.
Error message Cold Extrusion Prevented printer won't print under 180°C For some materials that are printed under 170°C you need to change the firmware because a cold extrusion will be prevented. This feature can be temporarely disables with the G-Code GCode:M302 (usage of M302: set new min temp with M302 S<temperature>). With the G-Code M500 this change will be saved permanently on the printer.

You didn't find what you were looking for? Maybe also have a look here at simplify3d.com